Liboulas looks across the marshes to Talmont sur Gironde, just a mile away. Talmont is officially classified as one of “France’s Most Beautiful Villages”. The village stands on a promontory, with the jewel in it crown, the lovely 11th century church, facing the estuary. Talmont was a way-station on the pilgrim route to Compostella – from here pilgrims set out across the Gironde, rejoining the route south at Soulac sur Mer. Liboulas & Talmont sit on the modern equivalent, the long distance path GR8 , and groups of hikers pass the gate of Libellule during the summer.
Talmont is very popular and it is advisable to visit early or late to avoid the crowds – on one evening a week in high season, the streets are candlelit and the shops stay open until 11pm. The museum at Talmont is small but gives good insights not only into the pilgrim era, but also the life of the estuary’s inhabitants in more recent times.
A little further on, between Arces sur Gironde and Barzan is the major archaeological site of the Moulin du Fa, where a Roman village has been gradually revealed. Unusually, the village was abandoned and not subsequently built-on, and so major features like the temple have not been disturbed in 2000 years.
Off Royan is the 16th century Phare de Cordouan, the oldest lighthouse in France. A boat trip from Meschers or Royan harbours, timed to coincide with low tide, makes an unforgetable day out - but it's best to choose a calm day. On certain trips, you can join in a barbecue of mussels, an "eclade" on the sandbank.
A half-hour drive inland is the historic city of Saintes, with Roman ruins, a cathedral and two abbeys, as well as several other medieval churches, and a museum, as well as a pedestrianised centre with many tempting shops, and a large monthly market across the river. Saintes has a number of good restaurants, so makes a good day trip in more changeable weather.